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They also normally work with their families, and many of them will have family members who are already working in garment production or the textile industry or who own factories. Even though the majority of the shanzhai fashion producers are women, many are highly reliant on their boyfriends or husbands to carry out the technological conventions and business management. The industry is unlike the conventional fashion world that is dominated by men, yet these women designers do constantly articulate gendered work in their production. SM: How will a designer decide what products or looks she wants to “shanzhai,” and what happens next? SL: Shanzhai fashion is often initiated by consumers. A consumer might recommend her favorite styles or looks of the current season, and then the designer will set up a poll on social media that features some of these highly prized products and invite her social media followers to vote for one or two. After they select the style, the woman designer will purchase the original product and make several sample versions, updating her consumers on which parts she’s modifying. For example, maybe “I will substitute one material for another,” maybe “I will have two versions, one is a long-sleeved one, is short-sleeved, or sleeveless” — things like that. She’ll ask consumers for their opinions, and finally have a final sample version that goes into production.
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